Nalta Balubas

Mechanical tips

The more horsepower output from the engine the smaller margins for mistakes/faults it becomes, which can lead to engine knocking and destroyed engine.It's crucial to get input data from monitoring sensors and set thresholds preferebly in an engine management box. Oil temperature is one of those, as oil ages faster at higher temperatures. Always make sure that the oil has come uo to operating temperatures before you go flat out, oiltemp is not the same as enginetemp.



The following is general oilpan temperatures:

Transmission

A good/strong clutchkit is sinter(4-6 pucks) or buy a used chevrolet 2-3 disc together with a quartermaster 7.25" from USA. As gearbox is a bmw zf/getrag and 1-2 rubber hardydiscs from volvo/bmw M. Tilton has a "flow control valve" that takes away some of the worst drivetrain abuse, it is also mounted as standard on some cars (nissan 200sx for example). Or else your local hydraulics shop have one with same characteristics of restricting/delay softenup clutch engagement. Avoid clutchdisc hubs with springs with torque of 600Nm or beyond as they become to hot and loses there tension and starts rattle.


Engine recipe fun volvo redblock "8v"


With a standard body and 400 to maximum 450whp i personally think a b230 is at its best/economic sweetspot, more than that requires a bigger turbo and they becomes less responsive/laggy if you dont buy a proper raceturbo with witch 500whp is reachable. But with that comes so high boost pressures(torque) that reliability on engine and drivetrain is significantly affected. An common "cheap" recipe that gives much "bang for the buck". give or take full torque from 4500 rpm, revlimiter at moderate 7300-7500, boost pressure 1,5-1,7 bar (21,7-24,6 psi, and should be around 350-400whp depending on where you dyno, who is tuning, fuel etc.

B230 base with h-profile rods and standard pistons (built on a "fresh" block, no drilling or grinding of crankshaft, etc.) "street port" 530 cylinderhead or lightly touch upped 531 (standard valves is good enought for this effect, possibly 38mm exhaust) mira grinded valveseats milling with a few nicer seat angles mostly for personal satisfaction, even if it does not make any difference. A very well-tested fine camshaft is axt 275 114 degree nock angle, there are a lot of other combinations that give the same or marginally better effect, etc., but this one among them I tested is unbeatable in terms of fine rev register with really good vacuum etc (a b230 with bad vacuum becomes boring in the low and middle registers, and more difficult to tune over all) standard intake or some "plainer race-intake manifold" mostly for the looks of it, neither here is a big difference. "ported" volvo 940 turbo exhaust manifold or a more simple "xtractor tube manifold)" (dont buy the china stainless steel one which have bad welds) at least 3 " exhaust size(preferably 3.25" -3.5 ") fuel injector at least 1280cc for ethanol

ignition system I'm only running wastefire or cop (coil on plug) on such a motor, distributors usually fail and the MSD gadgets are of low quality.
Turbo then, it's here (in cooperation with the camshaft and a good mapping/tuning) like the whole secret how the engine will be sitting. personally I have two favorites if you want something "cheap" borgwarner / swister 200 / s2 with a small exhaust gas (usually find new / used for a few hundred pounds even though they have decreased in number of recent years) or alternatively, an upgraded china turbo "t34 / t04e / tb58" "dear child has many names" These turbos have a relatively modern design, exhaust wheel around 56-58mm exducer, 52-56mm inducer. These turbos respond well without giving too much pressure, and can pull the engine to the revlimiter quite well without complaining.



Bang for the buck Bmw with original engine mangement system

NOTE! ALL CARS DOWN BELOW ARE WITH STANDARD INJECTION BOX AND ORIGINAL CHIP.

  1. make sure that the car is working fine with all Se till att bilen funkar bra org med alla givare mm.
  2. Köp en bredbandslamda.
  3. Innan du börjar se till att köpa nya ngk bcpr7es stift och knacka till 0.45mm
  4. Använd en lagom turbo Jag har kört allt ifrån 50mm till 64mm in, tänk på att inte försöka köra för liten turbo så du får för tidigt ladd då det dödar toppoackning. Fullt ladd efter 4k gynnar motorn massor och kör du org topplocksbult försök håll dej på max 1kg i ladd. ARP topplocksbultar är annars ett bra alternativ som bara är att byta utan att plocka ur kammarna.
  5. Grenrör funkar det mesta har jag märkt.
  6. Ta BORT org bränsletrycks regulator och ersätt den dummy.
  7. Köp en progressiv 2:1 btr.
  8. 525cc spridare på e85 funkar klockrent, kör man för små så går bilen fett på låglast för att den ska ligga bra fulllast och kör man med för stora går den snålt på låg för att ligga bra på last.
  9. Bygg om lmm till 3,5"-4", finns lite olika sätt att bygga på men se till att få den större. Tråd lmm är bra att ha på sug sidan.
  10. Limma eller på nått sätt se till att sätt fast anslutningen till tomgångs motorn på insuget.
  11. Bygg om vevhus venten så den inte går till insuget.
  12. Byt gärna ut bmw kylaren mot tex en volvo med separat expansion kärl alt stumma org höfläkt å borra ett 5mm hål i temostaten.
  13. Bygg inte för litet avgas
  14. köp en bra bränslepump walbro 450l/h är en grym intank pump.


Sen tillkommer ju ic, koppling mm men det över gäller själva motorn och det receptet över är det som funkar bäst 👍

Kort spec på några av mina gamla byggen:
E36 m52b28 -98 Steg1: t70 turbo, bruna volvo spridare, 2:1 btr. 396whp vid 0.9 på bensin
Steg2: t70 turbo, 525cc, 2:1 btr. 439whp vid 1.2, vid 1.3 gick packningen.
Steg3: m50 med 328 topp, mls, arp,k29, 2:1 btr, 730cc. Kass lambda och lmm vid bromsning=gick fett innan ladd. 464who vid 1,5.

Volvo 960 m50b25iv Steg1: hx35, 525cc, 2:1btr, 4" lmm 448whp vid 1,35 innan packningen gick. Byttes sen till 3mm packning och arp å kördes på 1.5 i ladd.

528 med m50b25 iv. Bruna volvo spridare, t3t4, 2:1 btr. 303whp vid 0,55 i ladd.

Bmw 740 m60. 525Cc, 2:1 btr, k31. 514whp vid 0,7.